Full disclosure: I am historically not a Christmas person. Possibly because my mom relentlessly very much is, and is probably setting out her 900,000 Costco nutcrackers this week, along with the fake tree boughs and tinsel and hundreds more Xmas tchotchkes. She has a singing animatronic Santa hat that she makes people wear when they come over. The sparkly feeling that yāall get fromā¦ doing thatā¦ and wearing antler headbands and baking gingerbread and listening to Celine Dion on purpose? Like, Iām happy for you. I just donāt get it.
However. Iām an absolute weeb for secular wintertime cocktails. Lay them on me. Pour all the egg nog and spiked cocoa and hot buttered rum and dirty chai and maple toddies down my throat all at once right now. Glƶgg, wassail, that extra-redolent orange-cinnamon tea from Market Spice in Pike Place. The drinks donāt even need to be warm, just festively spiced. Iām getting the sparkles just from typing this.Ā
Since, what?, Halloween, Iāve been serially slurping up all these cozy beverages all across our town and thereās been some obvious divas among them. Hattieās Hat in Ballard has a hot cocoa with Rumple Minze AND Meletti Cioccolato amaro thatās decorated with a mini-cane and a hat of whipped creamāthe perfect accoutrement for karaoke in Aunt Harrietās Room on Thursday nights. Rumba on the Hill is serving the elusive-around-here coquito, a rummy Puerto Rican fave with coconut milk, condensed milk, vanilla, a house rum blend, and all the PSL spices. And every Tuesday at 6 pm, Prost! in Greenwood does a feuerzangenbowle (āfire-tongs punchā in German) ritual, where they take a big communal bowl of red wine with orange peel and cinnamon stix and star anise and a rum-soaked sugar pyramid in it, then set it on fire before doling the wine out to the crowd in mugs. Everybody claps. Itās really something.
But thereās one drink that stands out in sharp relief among them. Seattleās best holiday-season cocktail of 2023 is Kevin!, from the Sitting Roomās very clever Home Alone-themed menu. For the second year, owners Shaun and Marissa Pfeifer have gone hard as a motherfucker with not only the decorāa tree and all the lights and the barstools dressed in red velveteen Santaclothes and manifold movie quotes transformed into word art!ābut also with an extensive list of cocktails named after references to the 1990 Chris Columbus-directed comedy classic.Ā
Corny? Yeah, man, but soās Christmas. And like so many swinging paint cans to Daniel Stern and Joe Pesciās faces, every one of these drinks is a slapper.Ā
The reason the Kevin! is the greatest among them, first, is because it is gilded with not just bourbon but FIG-INFUSED bourbon. If that werenāt enough, the nogās also laced with rum, Armagnac, edible gold stars, and Biscoff cookie crumbles suspended on the surface. Whichā¦ I know, the whole purpose of the Biscoff cookie is to pair it with a hot beverageācoffee is right there in the nameābut the act of crumbling them seems to level the effect up times infinity. Maybe I hallucinated this, but I say the scent of the buttery cinnamon-caramel cookies gets more, uh, activated this way too. They donāt smell this good on a shitty cattle-class airline flight, thatās for sure. One hundred percent adding smashed-up Biscoffs to my lifeās dairy-based cocktails from now onāwhat a great idea.
The bourbon is from Four Roses, then figged in-houseāitās fig-flavored in the way that dry wine is, if that makes sense, not jammy like a Fig Newton. The rumās Plantation Original Dark, a blend of Barbadian and Jamaican, and is one of my go-tos for mixing, since they age it in cognac barrels and it gets that plummy-caramelly-clove effect. The Armagnac is a small part of the recipe, but itās by Chateau de Millet 2-year VS French brandy, and it adds an extra vanilla whisper across the top. All of these elements work to complement the base of heavy cream and egg yolks, naturally, and make this cocktail super dessert-like. Itās like drinking a boozy crema catalana.Ā
It should be mentioned that not every rendition of Kevin! seems to arrive with the edible gold stars, and it could vary by bartender. You should ask for them. Theyāre pretty. You want them.
No surprise that the Sitting Room goes to these extravagant heights for its egg nog, since the Lower Queen Anne bar-resto has a rep for punny and elaborate concept drinks. Everything you order from the cocktail list here will invariably arrive with a novelty swizzle stick or a preserved flower or a mini Matchbox car perched on it. E.g., The Fuller! Go Easy on the Pepsi! from the current menu comes with a tiny cloisonnĆ© Pepsi hanging from the metal toothpick. Of course.Ā
The Kevin! isnāt available as a nonalcoholic nog, but there are two NA cocktails on the list that I dig, especially the holiday-ey Les Incompetents, with virgin apple vodka, apple cider, ginger beer, and New Orleans bitters. The Kevin! IS available to go, though, in 12-ounce or 16-ounce bottles. Co-owner Shaun adds, āYou can also get a special glass Home Alone decanter with one of two labelsāone is Kevin McAllisterās little cartoon battle plan against the robbers, and then the other one is just a collage of images from the movie. Itās a large decanter, at 26 ounces, so it fits a LOT of nog in there.ā
Speaking of battle plans, the cocktail of the same name is in second place here. Itās a clarified milk punch made with mezcal, sherry, agave, plum, grapefruit, lime, and tonka bean, then topped with a grapefruit-sage foam and garnished with a cool skeletonized leaf. The inclusion of tonka bean in the Battle Plan is compelling; those things were illegal in the US until a few years ago because they contain coumarin, which can be toxic to oneās liver in enormous quantities. (Probably also because itās a main ingredient in warfarin, and the FDA didnāt want people trying to manufacture their own blood thinners.) A member of the pea family, the wrinkled tonka bean is native to South America and brings cherry, almond, and cinnamon flavors to the game. You usually see them added to ice cream and pastries, sometimes perfume. Happy to see you stateside at last, tonka.Ā
To wrap this up, although I hate Christmas, Iām grateful this holiday season for this fancy-crunchy-fabulous take on eggnog, holiday drinks in general, and the ridiculous fun and artistry with which Shaun and Marissa have styled their current cocktail list. Alongside being a giant mark for a cocktail with flowers and toys all over it, I think the drinks themselves are all brilliant, with or without the kitsch.Ā
Turns out, I am no cooler or better than my mother. I just prefer my tchotchkes in my drinks instead of on the mantelpiece. Merry Christmas, Mom; maybe weāre not so different after all.